The Science Behind Our Recommendations
Every ingredient in your ORY routine is chosen for a reason — here's the research behind it, so you can see the evidence for yourself. Strength varies by ingredient, from large clinical trials to early or preclinical findings.
• Rosemary oil vs. minoxidil: Panahi Y, Taghizadeh M, Marzony ET, Sahebkar A. “Rosemary oil vs minoxidil 2% for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia: a randomized comparative trial.” Skinmed. 2015;13(1):15-21. A 6-month RCT (n=100) found rosemary oil produced a hair-count increase comparable to 2% minoxidil, with less reported scalp itching.
• Caffeine for hair growth: Fischer TW, et al., Int J Dermatol (2007) and Br J Dermatol (2014) organ-culture studies showed caffeine penetrates the hair follicle and counteracts testosterone-driven suppression of hair shaft elongation. A 2024 clinical study (J Cosmet Dermatol) found a caffeine + adenosine shampoo improved density and thickness in androgenetic alopecia.
• Biotin: A systematic review (“Biotin for Hair Loss: Teasing Out the Evidence,” J Clin Aesthet Dermatol) concluded clear benefit is concentrated in people with a documented biotin deficiency; evidence of added benefit in non-deficient people is weak, and high-dose biotin can interfere with certain lab tests (e.g., thyroid, troponin).
• Pumpkin seed oil: Cho YH, et al. “Effect of Pumpkin Seed Oil on Hair Growth in Men with Androgenetic Alopecia: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial.” Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2014. Oral 400 mg/day for 24 weeks increased hair count roughly 40% versus about 10% for placebo. Note: this was an oral supplement, not a topical application, and should be described accordingly if referenced in marketing.
• Saw palmetto: Available evidence (small RCTs and open-label studies reviewed by Healthline and clinical hair-loss centers) suggests modest benefit for mild-to-moderate androgenetic alopecia via weak 5-alpha-reductase inhibition, but studies are limited in size and quality; effect size is well below that of minoxidil or finasteride.
• Zinc pyrithione & tea tree oil for dandruff: Park M, et al., Scientific Reports (2018), describes zinc pyrithione's mechanism against Malassezia restricta via disrupted iron metabolism and oxidative stress. Satchell AC, et al., J Am Acad Dermatol (2002), a 4-week RCT (n=126), found 5% tea tree oil shampoo significantly reduced dandruff severity, scaliness, and itch versus placebo. A multicenter RCT (Skin Pharmacol Physiol) found 1% zinc pyrithione shampoo comparably effective to 2% ketoconazole for severe dandruff/seborrheic dermatitis.
• Peppermint oil: Oh JY, et al. “Peppermint Oil Promotes Hair Growth without Toxic Signs.” Toxicol Res. 2014;30(4):297-304. In a mouse model, 3% peppermint oil increased follicle number, follicle depth, and dermal thickness more than jojoba oil, minoxidil, or saline over 4 weeks. This is preclinical (animal) evidence; controlled human trials are lacking.
• Hair structure — keratin, cuticle, and porosity: Hair shaft is approximately 90–95% keratin, a structural protein cross-linked by disulfide bonds (established hair biochemistry). The cuticle's overlapping scale layer governs moisture movement in and out of the shaft, and becomes more porous with chemical processing, heat, and UV exposure — a well-documented structural mechanism, though the at-home “float test” used to estimate porosity is a consumer heuristic, not a validated clinical measure.
• Silicones (e.g., dimethicone) and oils (argan, jojoba) for frizz and shine: Cosmetic-chemistry literature documents dimethicone forming a flexible, hydrophobic film over the cuticle that reduces friction and static and seals in moisture. Argan and jojoba oils are rich in fatty acids (oleic, linoleic) and, for argan, tocopherols (vitamin E), which coat the cuticle and offer antioxidant protection against UV/heat-driven protein oxidation. These mechanisms are well supported by formulation and lipid chemistry; large-scale clinical trials isolating a single plant oil's effect on hair are limited.
• Protein-moisture balance: Widely described in cosmetic-chemist commentary as a practical consequence of keratin's hygroscopic (water-attracting) nature: excess protein can over-stiffen hair, especially fine or low-porosity strands, while excess moisture without protein support can leave hair limp when wet. This is grounded in established hair biochemistry but is primarily a practitioner-consensus framework rather than a body of dedicated randomized trials.